Curly/Coily Hair Care Tips from Pediatric Dermatologists

Ingredient

Product Type

Pros

Cons

Sulfates:

Lauryl sulfate (very strong)

Sodium laureth sulfate

Sodium myreth sulfate

(mild)

Cleansing shampoos

Cleanser: removes oil from scalp and hair

Milder potency: less drying

Over cleansing; drying

Anionic and amphoteric surfactants:

Isethionates

Polyglycerol derivates

Betaines

Conditioning shampoo:

“sulfate-free shampoo”

Cleans and moisturizes

Cationic surfactants and polymers:

Polyquaterniums

Polysaccharides

Chitins

Cellulose derivatives (ex hydroxyethyl cellulose)

Conditioning shampoos;

Conditioners

Soften hair and aid in detangling by smoothing hair surface;

Reduce frizz;

Fortify natural curl pattern

Residue buildup

Cationic quaternary ammonium salt:

Behentrimonium methosulfate

(NOT A SULFATE DETERGENT

Conditioners

Detanglers

Anti-frizz moisturizing agent

Residue buildup

Cationic surfactants and cationic polymers:

Polyquaternium (c.p.)

Curling Creams;

Detanglers

Soften and detangle the hair;

Minimize friction/frizz;

Define and maintain curl patterns

Residue buildup

Glycerin;

Glycerol;

Sorbitol;

Sodium pyrrolidone; Carboxylic acid (sodium PCA);

Panthenol;

Sodium lactate

Humectants

Hydrating agents that reduce breakage

Residue buildup

Silicone agents:

Dimethicone

Amodimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethiconol

Lightweight silicones:

Laurylmethicone copolyol

Dimethicone copolyol

PPG or PPE prefix

Shampoos;

Conditioners;

Detanglers

Moisten and smooth the hair;

Decrease friction between strands;

Impart a shiny appearance w/ less frizz;

Protect against heat and splitting from styling in chemically relaxed hair

Residue buildup;

Lightweight silicones are more easily removed with less buildup.

Oils

Essential oils;

Vegetable oils

Seal in moisture on damp hair;

Prevent hair breakage

Skin irritation

Triethanolamine and tetrasodium Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)

Styling gels

Preserves hair styles

Drying;

Increase fragility and breakage

Proteins:

Hydrolysates

Hydrolyzed collagen

Elastin

Keratin

Soy, wheat, almond oat protein

Simple amino acids

Quaternized protein hydrolysates

Conditioners;

Moisturizers

Smooths and strengthens hair;

Reduces breakage;

Moisturize hair

Dryness and brittle texture with overuse

Lye relaxers: sodium hydroxide

No-lye relaxers: guanidine or lithium hydroxide

Chemical Relaxers

Straighten hair;

Increase manageability

Scalp irritation;

Chemical burns;

Hair weakening and breakage;

Hair loss

Guanidine or lithium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate

Texturizers

Elongates curls but doesn’t completely straighten hair

No lye relaxers;

Residual mineral deposits make the hair more brittle.